Bromptoneering or bust

Naoshima certainly has a lot of art- and it one of the reasons people visit. This place has been on my list for a number of years – so it was important to include this time around.

We got to the island by ferry after transferring on a local train from Imabari to Takamatsu.

From the moment you land there is art.. but to see what galleries you want requires pre-planning to ensure you are able to access the spaces with the art you want to see. Kym had done quite a bit of research- and had arranged tickets for some of the key sites.

Bennesse House is a group that has a number of art spaces on the island – and even have a hotel in one (no we didn’t book there). You can easily cycle between sites – however there is an area where cyclists are not allowed, and you are required to park your bike at either end of the area and walk between the sites (also hilly). While this might be mildly frustrating I can appreciate given the number of tourists they would get in the high season it would under up looking like a teenagers bedroom. If you don’t cycle there is a bus to access the different sites – but you can only do this if staying at the Benesse property or in the high season (March-September) anyone can access the buses.

As a cyclist this island is hilly in parts – but I think this only provides photo opportunities.

Here are my recommendations of art places we visited on Naoshima:

Chichu Art Muesum (you may need to translate to English in your browser)- come here for the Monet’s, they are presented in a room of their own with no labelling. It’s the best I’ve experienced in the world (yes, including France). Prior to entering you have to take your shoes off and put on the provided slippers. You enter through an empty room which has no lights but the glow from the Monet room is enough. The floor is white/grey square block tiles with no grout and the texture is quite interesting and adds to the total experience. The other two artists displayed were James Tarrell and Walter de Maria (light being presented as art which is an experience and worth the queue). You cannot take photos of any artwork in this gallery.

Benesse House – ticket also includes the Valley Gallery. If you are a fan of Yayoi Kusama it has the work called Narcisis Garden (NGV will be having a version of this in the latest exhibition- I cannot wait!).

Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery Corridor of Time– displays selection of his photographs and links with the architecture. Thankfully our ticket also included afternoon tea – Japanese style with wagashi (perfect timing Kym), and we sat at a table made from wood of a 1000 year old tree…

Art House Project: Minamidera – this is one for your senses. You enter the pitch black space and after 5 minutes you can see the light square. The experience lasts for about 25 minutes and is meditative.

The buildings of many of the galleries themselves are begging to be photographed. However, there are a number which do not allow photos. The way the visitor is considered in the experience and how they off set the spaces work so well.

To the non Japanese person the island experience of the buildings with a mix of traditional and modern Japanese style buildings with easy access is a true delight.

While on the island we stayed at My Lodge which has fabulous views of the inland sea (sounds of moving furniture in other rooms aside) it was worth getting up early and watching the rays of sun move across the land and clouds. Quaint house is where our friend stayed, which was run by the same people. Accommodation can be limited- so it’s important to plan well ahead, as we moved our stay based in this and art spaces we wanted to visit.