Kyoto…

We had not initially planned to come here – but we needed a break in the trip.

If you are coming to Japan and visiting Kyoto… there are many things you can do… such as see temples – or you can choose to do a loop ride. This was our choice. We thought we would head to Arashiyama.. and back.

First up was Toji Temple… and the autumn leaves did not disappoint.

Next Kym had planned for us to stop at a local coffee shop. It was suppose to be for breakfast but we were taking a leisurely pace so it ended up being lunch.

It was a true find. My omelette was the best I’ve had – and yes the music note is in tomato sauce. All the flavours on the plate went do well together- there was a light dressing on the salad. I was really disappointed to finish lunch it was that good.

Next we cycled towards our goal, passed many small farmers gardens, along a river, and all different types of houses.

We got to Arashimyama.. and while we had previously been to this location at least three times – we had never seen so many tourists in one spot – ever. The main stretch of the town with all the shops was packed, so much people were walking on the road. When you hear there are a lot of tourists in Japan – I think they are all in this spot. It was pretty unpleasant. Thankfully we were on a bike and we could follow a car which was creating space… until we turned off where there were less tourists.

We headed for Okachi Samso Gardens. The 1000 yen entrance fee does put some people off thankfully. The garden bathed in sunlight and autumn leaves did not disappoint.

After we went up an old style road, stopped for a coffee and took backroads towards the centre of Kyoto to pick up bags and go to the train station for the next location.

It ended up being just over 39+km.. and really enjoyable. While I enjoy Japan the extreme amount of tourists was a little crazy, so I would definitely leave it off the list – as it really can’t be enjoyed.

Beautiful Oshima

The plan for the next two days was to visit Oshima Island and see it by bike. As we had caught the ferry the night before the ride started when we got off the boat… uncovered the bike and put the bags on… and cycled just far enough to eat breakfast.

Eventually we set off… and it was hilly within the first 2 minutes. I was at the back – I usually need 5km before I feel good on the bike (this is my excuse and I’m sticking to it).

After spending a good 30 minutes where Kym was fixing my bike (thanks again Kenneth..!), we cycled about 100 meters to one of the first planned stops. this is a natural phenomenon… and the path leads up to someone’s house. Now that’s what I call an entrance.

After spending time taking photos… we got back on our bikes and continued for another 20 minutes.

We stopped at the Camilla Park museum and zoo… as it was only 8:30, and the lunch place we planned go to knew was not opening until 12. Time feels slower when you are up at 5:25am. The Camilla museum had a very large number of preserved flowers on display- who knew there were so many! There was also a trunk of a camellia tree that had been 65+ years old. As it was still early we went to the zoo.

It was free to enter as it is funded by the local government. After a wander around we decided to head back get on the bikes and on the road.

It say it was hilly is an understatement… but when you are cycling to your accommodation you have your route and you just go. along side of the road were many trees and the ocean in the distance.

We stopped at a spot where you could walk to the dessert which was towards Mt Mihara. It is interesting to see the landscape change the closer you get towards the top as plants grow back. As it’s an active volcano (yes you read that correctly- but where isn’t in Japan..?) they have seismic monitoring equipment. The walk was a short 1.3+km nice to do for a change of pace.

Earlier we had decided to go to a local cafe near Habu port… and thankfully it was on the out of the town so we did not have to go down the hill (and back up after lunch. we got to the cafe around 1:15pm – and we were hungry.

The cafe was brilliant, the option for lunch was steak lunch set or chicken lunch set… and also was able to be paired with French press coffee (he thought coffee was better as French press to retain the oil).

The cafe itself was set up as part antique, part lounge, bar, coffee shop and played a mix of country and 70/80’s music. Such a good stop – we agreed the place was a real find! Well done Mayumi!

We left at 2:45.. and had to ride the 14km quickly to Montamachi Port to meet a taxi at 4:30 to take us to the accommodation. Given the hills we had encountered earlier we had our fingers crossed we would get there in time.

Along the route was this amazing feature – called the Great Road Cut. It was discovered when they were constructing the new road… and we came across it when the light was just perfect. I recall my geography lessons back in high school reading about these types of formations- but this was truly an amazing sight. We stayed to enjoy peace’s of the baumkuchen cake – which Mayumi had especially brought as a surprise for us. Oh it was delicious.

We did the last small hill and it was a smooth downhill ride to the port…. And we made it with 15 minutes to spare before the taxi was due to collect us.

While it was a very hard day on the bike (Strava tells me so) it was totally worth all the hill climbing for seeing amazing sights and having great experiences with friends on the Brompton.

Oh.. I forgot to mention the ride was 43+km with an elevation gain of 921 meters…

Cycling pt3

Once we left the cycling path we headed up a slight hill towards Tamako (lake – man made reservoir). The view was spectacular..!

The area had walkers, cyclists, and dog walkers. Also a great spot to watch the autumn leaves….

From here we went towards the baseball field… and the path/road continued up – as it often does in Japan, and we continued up towards a temple.

… and one of the great advantages in temples… is food. Mayumi had planned our lunch stop at a hand made udon noodle place on site. The dish featured fresh vegetables, meat and a warming meat broth, which matched with the noodle was heaven!

After we headed back down the hills through a few tunnels (used in making the reservoir) an headed back towards Kichi-joji and there around 5:30ish and headed to Yakitori for dinner.

It truely was a delightful ride. We did approximately 40.3km… thanks to Mayumi for taking us in her favourite route!

Cycling day.. pt2

Back on the cycling path we came across more local farms. These also have stands/vending machines where locals can buy the amount of food they need. As we were cycling along we saw many people pushing trolleys and carrying bags with veggies.

We stopped along the way at Kodaira folk house village – which is owned and run by the local council highlighting Japan old living – and a real delight.

Cycling day..! pt1

Thursday was a cycling day… we met our Brompton cycling friend Mayumi who was going to take us on one of her favourite rides.

All good rides start at train stations (near the library I posted earlier) … the photo is of our waiting spot and the duck on her bike. Once we briefly talked about the ride we headed off through the back streets to the cycling path.

The cycling path goes past houses, apartment blocks, farms (yes you read that correctly).. schools, shopping areas – it really is a connected for the community. It has two sides- one for walkers and one for cyclists. But like all good paths… walkers do tend to walk on the cycling section!

These photos make it appear that there are not many people on the path – but there were quite a lot just going about their daily routines.

We stopped at a local cafe for morning tea, which Mayumi had not been previously… and as Kym was keen we ventured inside. It was run by a local who makes food for the cafe.. let me tell you these cakes looked as good as you think they did. They were served as a set with a tea or a coffee.

The traditional Japanese house opposite the cafe had been renovated. Part 2 to come…

Reflection on the day..

Well today didn’t turn out exactly as planned – but we still managed to have some great experiences and food.

Originally we had planned to cycle around the Shimokitazawa area – which is known for second hand variety of shops. We caught the train to Shinjuku and… after getting out of the station (if you’ve been there you understand)… we discovered Kym’s bike had a flat rear tyre. After 25+ minutes of grunt work, disconnecting the gears, changing the tube… we managed to set off again back to our route. Given the stress of this exercise there is no photos. Additionally at this point Kym’s phone didn’t have any internet connection – thankfully mine did.

Cycling the back streets is always a joy in Tokyo – they are quiet, minimal traffic and you see life differently. As we were going… we saw a short queue of people and a sign indicating ‘Gris Bagel’. If it’s good font it’s a sign… so we joined it. As it was only take away we put them in our bag and headed towards Yoyogi Park and sat beneath the autumn leaves. Beautiful.

The lake within the park is being fixed, so we did the cycling route and headed out for a coffee – Little nap stand. When you having an amazing coffee – it’s magic… the textured milk.. the taste of the coffee – bliss.

By this stage we were feeling confident – and continued our route to Main Mono in Shibuya near Yoyogi-Uehara station. The bakery is the work of a Japanese pastry chef – who trained and worked in Paris. Walking inside you can just smell the butter… ah. they have a variety of bread products on sale… so course we decided to buy three and eat them inside with a pot of tea. The croissant was delicious.. as was the persimon danish and the keema curry roll.

Back on the bikes we headed over to Shimokitazawa… however we did about about 1km and Kym said something was wrong with his pedal. As you can imagine 5-10 minutes diagnosing a problem with your bike is not fun – especially when you are not at home and don’t have a wrench. At this point we decided to head to the nearest Brompton bike experts…. At LIFE with a BICYCLE in Daikanyama. Checking the bike they determined the pedal was broken.. and a new crank and new pedals (of which they had the parts) were needed – and it would take an hour. Faith restored in bicycle shops in Japan we decided to go shopping…

An hour later when we picked the bike up everything had been replaced and it was ready to go. Fast, and efficient- recommend! As we were cycling Kym also noticed they had pumped up his tyres… and fixed the gears – ah 😉

While we never made it to Shimokitazawa it did teach us the following :

  • When bringing a bike to Japan – always build in a day or two to ensure everything is working
  • Know where reliable bike shops are located, just in case you have to go
  • … where there is a queue good food is always found

Here’s to a great day tomorrow on the bike – fingers crossed..!

A jaunt to Labrador Jetty

We were back on our bikes for our final day in Singapore. Vida had suggested that a ride to Labrador Jetty and then along the foreshore would be nice.

This route was a little under 20km, and included a ‘tricky’ shortcut back to the hotel on Singapore’s excellent MRT. The route is available on Strava.

From Tiong Bahru we joined the Alexandra Canal Park Connector and then the Alexandra Park Connector to Labrador Park. The first unexpected, but delightful, stop was the “tree top walk” in Southern Ridges park. Perhaps, if we had examined the map, we would have noticed that on the other side of the road was a bigger garden with a range of interesting features. So if you do this ride, you can report back to us on what we missed out on at Hort Park.

A little further down the road, if you are feeling arty, are the Gillman Barracks. They are described as a contemporary arts cluster in Singapore that is home to international art galleries, restaurants and the NTU Centre for Contemporary Art Singapore, which are all housed in conserved colonial barracks. Unfortunately, late rising artists are incompatible with early morning bike rides – not too much was going on when we made a diversion.

We continued on to Labrador Jetty (which apparently is not accessible at the moment) to take in some local fishing culture and the immense nature of the port operations in Singapore.

After Labrador Jetty we continued along the foreshore. If you ride it, you will need to make your own judgement about some of the advice about where you are not meant to ride! We ended up at Vivo City for breakfast a local chain restaaurant – Toast Box. Unfortunately, there was some confusion between the orderer and orderee – which meant we waited too long – we still got fed and that did defeat the hangry feelings.

Twenty four years ago was the last time I visited Singapore. At that time Sentosa Island was the big thing in town. We took the free tour bus from the airport and went there. I’ve had a look at our old photos – back in the days of film – and I am not sure I took any photos at the time (says something about the cost of film and developing).

Sentosa is still there and its features, such as Universal Studios, are still popular. It is a bit like me – showing its age just a little bit.

What I can guarantee is that it won’t take 24 years to get back to Singapore. In fact, I’ll be arriving there tomorrow (this time not for a bike ride) to transit on the way to England.

After we bid farewell to Sentosa we returned to the hotel to pack our bikes into their bags and prepared for check out.

After checkout, we had a delightful lunch at House of Perankan Petit. It describes itself as a modern and intimate 30-seater restaurant located within a former Peranakan enclave along Eng Hoon Street in Tiong Bahru. Helmed by chef and owner, Bob Seah, the restaurant serves traditional Nonya cuisine from Bob’s treasure trove of secret home recipes as well as a few new Peranakan-inspired creations.

It was yum! I would recommend a visit if you are in the area.

We needed a lovely drink to follow this lovely meal. So, we made our way into the Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel and had a Singapore Sling and a Sakura Sling (only one each!) and then chased that a craft beer from the fantastic LeVel33 the worlds highest urban microbrewery. This is where I’ll be tomorrow afternoon.

I don’t know about you, but on my final hours in Singapore I shopped for homewares. For some reason I felt the need to look for a Japanese cast iron griddle. Ultimately, I left it behind because it wouldn’t fit within my carryon baggage limit!!

If you’re at loose end and in need of homeware or furniture during your next layover visit Tan Boon Liat building. It is best described as a vertical homeware centre.