Downtown Nagasaki and what do we wander past… a library – and there is little surprise that we venture inside.
What I liked –
As a cyclist you want to cycle in cities in far off places. You hear about major public rides and you want to experience them. Cycling on the Rainbow Bridge with our Brompton was one of these experiences.
When the opportunity came up while in Japan we crossed our fingers we could participate. For the chance to do this we had to enter a ballot – and for this we thank our Tokyo Brompton friend Mayumi who thankfully also wanted to do the ride and we registered as a group with her. Most importantly we were lucky enough to get selected.
The package for people cycling included a 16-page plus booklet on the ride (all instructions), and your participation number sticker for helmet and back.
The ride was held on 1 December, and started in Odaiyba. To get there for us involved either a 50 minute train ride (with changing) or 48 minute ride. We choose the ride – nothing better than cycling through the streets of Tokyo early morning. Regardless of choice we had to set off at 6:45 – yes you read that time correctly. Naturally we took a little longer as towards our destination the route was blocked by the ride barriers as people had started earlier.
After meeting fellow Bromptoneers we went to the gathering area for all riders where we began to join the line up – and I mean line up.
Organisers also provided opportunity for people to do the ride with rented bikes (including e-bikes) – so there was a large number of these at the beginning where people were provided with bikes and helmets.
Like all large organised rides there was a lot of walking to the beginning- as they only let 100 people go at a time to ensure there were no bunch-ups. If you’ve ever done a community ride in Australia you would have experienced this… it’s largely frustrating.
Okay I will acknowledge we walked for at least 2km before actually cycling.. as we winded around the paths to the start. On the bright side through this process we saw Mt Fuji. It’s amazing how large it looks – whenever and wherever you see it.
Looking at the photos you can see it was perfect weather. No clouds.. and the temperature was due to be 17 degrees, and not much wind – perfect!
When we got on the bikes.. within the first 300 meters you begin to go up to the middle of rainbow bridge which is an elevation gain of approximately 50 meters within half a kilometre. Like all good bridges there is a middle point (weph)… and a little after that there was the u-turn to go back down the other side and towards the Tokyo Harbor Uminomori Tunnel.
The tunnel was quite dark (given it’s designed for cars it’s not surprising. However there were colourful lights flashing and some music at the mid- way point. At this point I was behind a parent and child who was not cycling to straight, so it was easier to stay behind them until getting out of the tunnel (yes another short hill). The route them took us to the Around Uminomori Waterway – which is where the rowing events occurred for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics – and the Tokyo agate Bridge can be seen in the distance. This was a brief rest stop where small refreshment and snack was provided.
Getting back on the bike it was over the same route (through the tunnel) and back to the start at Odiaba.
After parking the bike we lined up for the free soup and attempted to buy lunch. Ended up with a chicken/rice dish which was satisfying. Like any large event there were a number of food trucks- but slightly complicated as they predominantly took paypay (Japanese online payment system). There were also an umber of stalls selling bike parts, clothing and cycling gear.
I also want to highlight the portable toilets were the cleanest I’ve ever had the pleasure to use – and this was at the end of the event. I recognise this might seem weird – but credit where it’s due.
Overall it was a great event and I’m pleased to have participated on my Brompton. Huge thanks goes to Mayumi for registering us in the lottery in the hope of getting a ticket and being the fabulous organiser who also delivered the attendance package to our hotel.
It happens doesn’t it… something you were really looking forward to seeing and experiencing on holidays doesn’t come off.
Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin was not display.
I had always wanted to see this piece in its place – for years. I’d seen countless photos… other people had visited. Sigh. Disappointed, yes, you could say that…
I dealt with it in the way I know best – by going to eat lunch.
I enjoyed white bait on rice. Thanks for finding it Kym… but I suggest it was really his stomach guiding his decision making. Thought process goes like this – time not spent taking 100s of photos of the pumpkin means we can eat lunch before the next gallery.
Eating lunch experience was topped off by the sudden rain storm which lasted 5 minutes (literally) as we were finishing. The group of three next to us, only one person had ordered food, and put his dentures in water while he ate , while the other two sneaked their sandwich and chips from their bag. Thankfully we still managed to get to the next gallery within the time allocation (wept).
Both Kym and Mary thought it was funny.. given a large number of Yayoi Kusama’s works are coming to NGV from the 12 December- I’m just going to have to enjoy them there. I hope yellow pumpkin is not there.
Visit this island just for this – it’s fabulous.
This was the best experience I’ve had in a Gallery.. that I can remember- ever. Hard call – yes it is, but true.
It’s a concrete construction dome building – where inside has two openings which are open to the elements. At first you might think the floor is flat. There are little holes which emit water in small amounts. Once you collect tickets (yes you have to book these ahead of time – it’s popular), you follow the path around through trees and back towards the building. You change your shoes for slippers (this ensures you do not mark the floor).
Explaining its appeal is difficult – it’s meditative. Watching the water pools form and run into other pools of water or objects is intoxicating. Add to the experience of the elements of bird sounds, wind etc. we stayed about 45 minutes. As I said it was intoxicating, meditative. No photos are allowed inside, and they request you remain quiet.
I’ve added a link to the site so you can read it yourself.
Loved it!
Would come back just to experience see this AGAIN.
We visited this gallery by bike.
The road around the whole island is approximately 13km, however the elevation gain through the whole ride is 249meters. If you cycle go in the direction we did.. otherwise the hills will be harder. As I’ve said previously there are lots of opportunities for photos. Along the route we saw beef cattle, persimmons, citrus fruit, camellias, cotton (no we didn’t believe it either) autumn foliage… and stunning views of the inland sea.
Naoshima certainly has a lot of art- and it one of the reasons people visit. This place has been on my list for a number of years – so it was important to include this time around.
We got to the island by ferry after transferring on a local train from Imabari to Takamatsu.
From the moment you land there is art.. but to see what galleries you want requires pre-planning to ensure you are able to access the spaces with the art you want to see. Kym had done quite a bit of research- and had arranged tickets for some of the key sites.
Bennesse House is a group that has a number of art spaces on the island – and even have a hotel in one (no we didn’t book there). You can easily cycle between sites – however there is an area where cyclists are not allowed, and you are required to park your bike at either end of the area and walk between the sites (also hilly). While this might be mildly frustrating I can appreciate given the number of tourists they would get in the high season it would under up looking like a teenagers bedroom. If you don’t cycle there is a bus to access the different sites – but you can only do this if staying at the Benesse property or in the high season (March-September) anyone can access the buses.
As a cyclist this island is hilly in parts – but I think this only provides photo opportunities.
Here are my recommendations of art places we visited on Naoshima:
Chichu Art Muesum (you may need to translate to English in your browser)- come here for the Monet’s, they are presented in a room of their own with no labelling. It’s the best I’ve experienced in the world (yes, including France). Prior to entering you have to take your shoes off and put on the provided slippers. You enter through an empty room which has no lights but the glow from the Monet room is enough. The floor is white/grey square block tiles with no grout and the texture is quite interesting and adds to the total experience. The other two artists displayed were James Tarrell and Walter de Maria (light being presented as art which is an experience and worth the queue). You cannot take photos of any artwork in this gallery.
Benesse House – ticket also includes the Valley Gallery. If you are a fan of Yayoi Kusama it has the work called Narcisis Garden (NGV will be having a version of this in the latest exhibition- I cannot wait!).
Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery Corridor of Time– displays selection of his photographs and links with the architecture. Thankfully our ticket also included afternoon tea – Japanese style with wagashi (perfect timing Kym), and we sat at a table made from wood of a 1000 year old tree…
Art House Project: Minamidera – this is one for your senses. You enter the pitch black space and after 5 minutes you can see the light square. The experience lasts for about 25 minutes and is meditative.
The buildings of many of the galleries themselves are begging to be photographed. However, there are a number which do not allow photos. The way the visitor is considered in the experience and how they off set the spaces work so well.
To the non Japanese person the island experience of the buildings with a mix of traditional and modern Japanese style buildings with easy access is a true delight.
While on the island we stayed at My Lodge which has fabulous views of the inland sea (sounds of moving furniture in other rooms aside) it was worth getting up early and watching the rays of sun move across the land and clouds. Quaint house is where our friend stayed, which was run by the same people. Accommodation can be limited- so it’s important to plan well ahead, as we moved our stay based in this and art spaces we wanted to visit.
It has been a while since I’ve posted. That’s because the most excellent social media manager has things under control. While my job has been to provide general direction for riding, food etc. But as we enter the second phase of our trip, I hope to have more time to reflect on some of our activities. Right now I am laying on the day bed in our relatively large and excellent value hotel room. The social media manager is in bed adding photos to the bevy of posts she wrote on the plane from Tokyo.
Here’s my view right now.
Here are some media from the airport. Spot Fuji and checkout the robot wheelchair.
There is much art to see and explore – so today we take our bikes here..
We are on a small fast ferry which is hurtling along at 42km per hour. We have one set of tickets booked for entry to the art museum for 10-10:30. the cycle should be about 15 minutes- or so google tells us.. printed material is longer.
Here’s to a good day on the bike and on foot!
We enjoyed the coffee and homemade bread so much we went back today
Really good coffee here…
