After enjoying the ice cream we left Hakata beach and headed for the Hakata- Oshima bridge. Around this point there are two rivers that come together (confluence) and if you looks closely at the water you can see the whirlpools.
From the bridge we headed on to Oshima island. While the island features the highest elevation point along the ride we took a diversion and decided to go around the island with a different view.
We stopped to look at a rose garden…. While being at the end of the season still had blooms out.
From here we passed through farms, port areas until the final bridge, Kurushima (or bridges) came into view.
The last bridge is just over 4km long – and we were pleased to have limited wind. When on this bridge you had a sense of achievement for coming as far as you have, and sadness as you know your near the end of the ride.
This area is a significant shipping area.. and there are many ships which use this passage for freight.
We made a brief stop at the cyclist station for a photo with the sign – we had missed it last time (it’s not we’ll sign posted) for the required end of ride picture before the final few kilometres to the city of Imabari.
The ride down to Imabari if you’re following the blue line does have a little traffic… so instead we took a different route which was quieter and more enjoyable, before making it to the hotel.
Ride details
Kilometres cycling – 52.09 km (that’s what Strava tells me)
Elevation gain – 332
Walking – 16,285
… and it was truly a fabulous ride, and so pleased to have experienced it again. Ah.
As a cyclist there is nothing more enjoyable than cycling the islands in the Seto-Inland Sea. This is our fourth time being in this region, and we are varying it a little by cycling the Yumeshima Kaido, and the Shimanami Kaido with one of our Brompton friends who moved here from Tokyo earlier this year.
We caught a couple of trains from Kashihara Monday morning… to meet in time for a fish lunch at Onomichi, before we set off on the ride.
When cycling here on a Monday you will experience places that are closed, or local food delicacy shops of the area which might be sold out (it was a Monday so I can’t complain), but we stopped at a great little spot for afternoon tea which also sold a variety of home wears and Japanese style items (handmade wooden chopsticks rests.. ah!).
As you can see by the pictures, the weather was a delight… and while the route is definitely not flat (they are islands… and to get to the bridges you gotta go up). the scenery is always changing as you reach a corner.
Here was Mondays Route
Distance- 32.4km
Weather – 17 degrees, wind a little cool, but sun was warm!
1) The Tatara Ohashi Bridge which opened in 1999 and is 1480 metres long. It connects Ikuchijima with Omishima.
2) The Omishima Bridge which opened in 1979 and is only 328 metres long. It connects Omishima with Hakatajima.
3) The Hakata-Oshima bridge which opened in 1988 and is 1165 metres long. From its name you can tell that it connects the islands of Hakata and Oshima.
4-6) Finally the Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi bridges which together are 4.15 kilometres long. They opened in 1999. They connect the islands of Ohshima, Mushijima, Umashima and Shikoku. We rode up a steep hill for 3.5 kilometres and withstood gale force winds to get you this photo. As we rode across the ropes of the bridge we’re being played like a violin by the strong wind!
Well me made it to Imabari today – here is how today went.
Leaving our accommodation around 8:30 we headed off towards Imabari. The forecast for today was originally supposed to be to be around 16 degrees with some showers.
The first section towards the bridge we had to go over was fairly flat.. and as it was not raining, and breakfast was fuelling us we stopped for a few photos along the way.
The paths up to the bridges generally are not too steep – around 3-5% incline. They also tend to go in large loops.. making it easier. As it’s citrus growing area – there are a LOT of fruit trees and fruit themed seats in the area.
As you go along this bridge there are clap sticks part way through – this is the purpose of those sticks. They are at each tower.
“Beneath the main tower is a sign noting the “flutter echoes” (“dragon’s roar”). If you try facing the sky and clapping your hands, you’ll hear the sound of your hand clap echoed back.”
Half way the prefecture changes from Hiroshima to Ehime..
On the other side of the bridge is the cyclist rest stop (also highway stop for cars) which has a wide range of produce from the region. As a cyclist you can pick up a wide range of “shiminami gear” and take a break. We enjoyed mochi and mandarin juice – mum it reminded me of your mandarins!
Given the weather.. (the sun was out by this stage) we were enjoying ourselves but Kym as route leader reminded us we had a way to go and we wanted to avoid the weather so we got back on the bikes.
Kym had been doing research the previus night for a place to stop for lunch – and found Fuu, which means wind. It specialises in okonomiyaki. They had different styles available (Kansai/hiroshima and green onion style) and you could choose the style of toppings. We also chose to have miso soup.. given the ind was cold. The food was the perfect antidote for being on the bike for the morning. While we were the first ones in – it really filled up with the local workers for the lunchtime crowd.
We got back on our bikes and headed towards Imabari.
Ideally we wanted an afternoon coffee – but when you are riding mid-week you are not always fortunate in what is available – but we did find this van. Kym of course ordered a curry bread roll (oh it was super tasty) and we all had coffee and watched the other cyclists ride past… the. It began to rain. Out came all the wet weather gear.. again and we pushed on to our destination.
When it’s raining you just want to get to the end, especially when the wind is blowing. However it began to clear up / and this always puts cyclists in a good mood as you begin to enjoy yourself again and want to do other things – today was no exception. We decided to go up Kiro-San. Kym and I had done this before and to be honest we should have remembered what it was like.. but let’s just say it was steep.
As we were going up, the weather experience was similar to “four seasons in one day”. It was fine, then sunny… rain and when we were very near the top hail started (could it get worse..?).. and very, very cold wind. We stayed there long enough to look at the view.. and the. Get back on the bikes to go down and onto the final bridges Kurushima Kaikyo Bridges, as there are three segments.
We did not take a lot of photos on the final bridge section as the wind was that strong, at one point it nearly stopped us cycling – in addition to the noise from the wind vibrating through the bridge cables. Oh it was so loud, after about 30 minutes we were pleased to have made it to the other side given the high winds. From there it was a criusey ride into Imabari, where we made it before the next lot of rain – hooray!
This is the third time Kym and I have done this route – and it is a true delight (even despite the wind). The scenery.. the light and the way it transforms how the mountains around the region look.. even despite the wind and rain it was truly worth it… and so glad we made the effort to do the ride again. There are always things we think – if only we had more time to explore the other islands.. or places along the way (as there is quite a lot here if you choose to explore) we have well and truly left something for next time 🇯🇵❤️🚲😉
This is Innoshima Bridge. It is a suspension bridge that is 1,270 metres. We rode the second deck. It is the third longest bridge along Shimanami Kaido and the longest we rode today.
Well today was certainly wet. It started fine… but as soon as the ferry landed at Mukaishima Island the rain started – and out came all the wet weather gear we had in our bags but internally we had been complaining as it was taking up room (knew there was a reason we carted it around).
But hey it’s only water… and we have to ride in it to get where we need to our accommodation on Ikuchijima Island. The morning rain was light (more annoying and lingering), while after lunch it was persistent.
We managed to fine a couple of good coffee shops and lunch stops that kept us going. First up was Seabridge (near the large white dinosaur) – come here for the view and the lemon pound cake and orange juice, it’s fabulous. There are also a large range of books for all ages (yes largely in Japanese).
Next up we stopped at Manda that specialise in fermenting vegetables. The garden features a range of produce… koi fish and a foot bath (not great in rainy conditions). We stopped here for lunch. The root museum is a room where you can look at the roots of vegetables they have planted – impressive!
Next up we stopped along the way at a temple especially for cycling. Which given my incidents in failing off the bike this year I felt I needed a change in luck. It was amusing (probably only to me) it stopped raining when we arrived and started again when we got back on the bike.
Made it across the last bridge for the day… and thought we would revisit a coffee shop we had been to before – but no such luck as it was closed (you really need to pick your days carefully if you do this ride – if there are places you want to visit and they are closed during the weekday). Thankfully all was not lost as there was a coffee shop open at the end of the Shinomachi shopping street. Here we enjoyed a coffee and a delicious lemon pound cake.
Thankfully it was only 7+km to our accommodation along a largely flat road.. as by the time the rain as “atmospheric conditions” was starting to wear thin.
Tonight we are staying in accommodation with home style experience where we get dinner and breakfast included with the cost. Can’t wait to see what the food is like!
Here is a map of the ride today – approx 53+km (depending on what device you want to believe) with an elevation gain of 243meters.
I say Hostel. You don’t think gourmet breakfast, do you? Well let me tell you Ikidane Cyclist Hostel had a great breakfast. The perfect start for any cyclist doing any part of the Shimanami Kaido. Please note the shoes left outside of the sleeping quarters.
On this day we were completing the ride from Imabari to Onomichi and then taking a Shinkansen to Tokyo. Onomichi is:
a quaint town located along the Seto Inland Sea.
known for the Temple Walk, a network of paths connecting 25 temples.
a famous sightseeing place that is characterised by a townscape that is brimming with a retro vibe.
probably most well known as the small port town at the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido.
The blue line is the official route, but some times going off-piste provides rewards. This is certainly true this day. I found it hard to limit the pictures in the gallery below. Because we:
discovered a mikan inspired toy capsule vending machine on the side of the road.
were alerted to the possibility of a close encounter with a wild boar.
were encouraged to have a beer by a portly statue.
became reacquainted with Cafe Via, who you might remember lost their Tokyo cafe in the recent typhoon.
discovered a famous korokke artisan.
This was all before lunch!
Lunch
Again Takero used his local knowledge and language to find a unique lunch spot just a little bit of the blue line. On Innoshima island went to Manda Fermentation an international company, that unsurprisingly, specialises in fermentation.
Manda Fermentation at its headquarters has a garden, foot bath, store and cafe. I personally believe that all cycling routes should have a foot baths to revive cyclists tired feet.
We had lunch in the Cafe and a tried Manda’s amazake. Wikipedia tells me that amazake is a traditional sweet, low-alcohol drink made from fermented rice. It is part of the family of traditional Japanese foods, made using the koji mould, that includes miso, soy sauce and sake. I say oishiii!
Onomichi
On the way to our final destination we came across the wonderful 70 Cafe with a beautiful view. At that point, I seriously contemplated resigning and opening a cafe…. It can’t be that good all year round can it?
I thought the name of 70 Cafe was because there was about 70kms to Imabari. But, its named after the owner’s pride an joy – the Toyota 70 Landcruiser.
It is surprising to learn that after all those amazing bridges the “New Onomichi” bridge does not have a lane for cyclists! But it does not matter because there is a frequent and cheap ferry service that is available for pedestrians and cyclists. When we arrive there was a small market along the foreshore. The foreshore does have a converted warehouse with food, accomodation and wonderful local goods.
We didn’t have enough time to explore much more of Onomichi as we had to catch the train. Perhaps next time we visit!
Takero, arigato-gozaimashita. Helen and I look forward to riding with you again.
