Slow Tour comes to Japan: Day 3

Imabari to Ikidane Cyclist Hostel and Cafe

Day 3 saw us start from Imabari on the Shimanami Kaido. Once again no GPX file is required because all you need to do is find the blue line and follow it. Although, we did take a nice quiet detour along the shoreline.

The Shimanami Kaido route involves seven islands, six bridges and one ferry. The islands we visited were:

  • Umashima
  • Oshima
  • Hakatajima
  • Omishima
  • Ikuchijima
  • Innoshima
  • Mukaishima

We decided to complete the route in two days. Staying at the Ikidane Cyclist Hostel and Cafe on Omishima Island.

Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge

O.k. you say its a bridge, so what? Well, I respond that the bridge is 4105 metres long , it crosses a beautiful part of the world, and has a special cycling lane! This is certainly one of the highlights of the ride – and it was the first thing we did out of Imabari.

Just to emphasis how good the bridge was we took a 7km diversion up and down and a mountain (o.k. maybe it was a big hill) to get some good photos for you.

Lunch

We had plans to visit a special pizza restaurant, but our hilly excursion meant that we were running a little late. Fortunately we called ahead to find out that were out of pizzas in any case!

Quick consultation of Google found a lunch place that was open. When we arrived it look like a run down cabin. But as the doors opened and classical music poured out a gentle woman greeted us. On the menu was one item only – Keema Curry. The setting was perfect. She prepared our curry and collected cut herbs from the garden for our curry and our drinks. We sat outside enjoyed to good food, good weather and good company.

To Ikidane Cyclist Hostel

Fortunately the rest of the ride was not as hilly or as hard as the first part of the ride. The Ikidane Cyclist Hostel should be renamed Cyclist Heaven. It only opened in May and provides great facilities. Most importantly, it offers wonderful food! It is, in my mind, closer to a ryokan and than a western hostel.

Just before the Hostel is a the local Cyclist Sanctuary with food, gifts and orange juice. You might not know but this region is famous for mikan (oranges) and salt!

Slow tour comes to Japan: Day 2

Tobishima Kaido

A beautiful 42 km ride following a blue line across seven islands. There was no need for GPX file. There is useful information on the Kure Area Travel Report website.

The islands

  • Shimokamagarijima
  • Kamikamagarijima
  • Toyoshima
  • Osakishimojima
  • Heirajima
  • Nakanoshima
  • Okamurajima

Our starting point was Nigata Station – it took two trains from Hiroshima. A rapid service and then one stop on a local service.

To get to these seven islands we crossed seven bridges.

We also had a few tunnels to save our legs we benefitted from some tunnels. But a tunnel is always easier than riding over a hill.

Ate lunch at Marichan’s – her Okonomiyaki was sugoi oishiiii!! We required help from so locals to find the narrow lane that it was located on. We’ve taken a photo of lane to help you!

We took a short detour to visit an old Edo era village with many of its original buildings intact. Interestingly, it also had the bike used by the first Japanese person to ride around the world. At least, that’s our memory of the information at the site! We will stick with that.

At the end of the ride, we took a ferry to our overnight accommodation and the starting point for Day 3 of the Slow Tour – Imabari. Imabari is:

  • the second largest city in Ehime Prefecture
  • home to the Shimanami Kaido
  • shipbuilding town with a beautiful castle and an attractive old commercial district
  • one of the largest production center of towels
  • a city on Shikoku Island, Japan
  • home to Imabari castle.

Slow Tour Comes to Japan: Day 1

Hiroshima

We arrived in Japan from London at Tokyo International Airport (HND) walked briskly through immigration and customs to the arrivals hall where we met our friend, Takero. We promptly pulled out our pre-prepared cycling luggage – two Brompton Bags and two small panniers and our bikes ready for our flight Hiroshima.

In Haneda we took advantage of the luggage delivery service – which meant our big bike bags and our other suitcases would magically arrive at our hotel 4 days later and appear in our room! Awesome!

Perhaps what is more amazing is that the Japan Airlines transported our bikes without any protective bags to Hiroshima without incident. They carefully placed our bikes in the boxes shown above and added some protective bubble wrap. Here are our bikes in Hiroshima. It is a caring service.

Hiroshima is:

  • the capital of Hiroshima Prefecture in Japan
  • is located on the broad, flat delta of the Ota River, which has 7 channel outlets dividing the city into six islands which project into Hiroshima Bay
  • an industrial city of wide boulevards and criss-crossing rivers along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea
  • a bright, modern city with a sad history: in 1945 it was the location of the world’s first nuclear bombing  

The Route

Hiroshima is a convenient location for getting to the Tobishima Kaido and Shimanami Kaido. These two blue-line cycling routes are the the objective of our journey.

After at an awesome Okonomiyaki lunch – Hiroshima style, I did however plot a loop ride that took us past many of the interesting spots in Hiroshima.

Lunch

Hiroshima is a mostly flat city. So included what seems to be the only hill. Up there is where the art gallery is! Some photos from the ride are below.

Hiroshima Peace memorial

We came across some fellow travellers from Lithuania, they’ve been doing an epic ride over a couple of months in Japan that had bikes that matched ours.

Hiroshima Castle
Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

Preparation for the big day ahead

Getting ready for the big ride the next day meant plenty of carb loading! Remember no gyoza, no life!

For the cyclists…

On Sunday we cycled The Shimanami Kaido.  It is known as a “must do” route for cyclists.  We had heard about it from our Japanese Brompton friends who have done the route and provided us information.  While we aren’t in Japan for long we thought – yeah we can do 74km+ in a day on our Brompton’s!

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

I acknowledge to actually enjoy the area and ride and the number of side options it would be best to stay in the area a number of days. Saying that we planned just a day – and the weather was going to be a perfect 30 degrees.

Kyoto

As we were in Kyoto we caught the train (not the cheapest option I know!) to the beginning at Onomichi… and caught the ferry over to the beginning. We were surprised by the number of people who were hiring bikes – here is a photo of a couple!

https://flic.kr/p/XMsna

Here’s he route – we did the red line, which is considered ‘recommended’. There are other options if you have more time or need a challenge!

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Along the road is a blue line you follow, so it’s hard to get lost.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

As there area number of bridges, these twoo are well marked for cyclists & pedestrians.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

The route takes you through working parts of the island, and areas which specialises in citrus fruit (oranges, lemons etc), so the view is mixed along with mountains and water.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Along the route, there are a number of stops you can make, which have nice views of the area – and occasionally vending machines.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Along the route you are on the same road as cars – although there is opportunity to go on a path along side the road.  The condition of the road is better than many of the cycle lanes in Adelaide (unless of course they have just laid the road).  The drivers were very courteous and gave plenty of space – although there is always one which goes too close!

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Along the route we stopped at a little cafe for lunch – hot dog and a hamburger (not as any Australian knows it). They were kind as they filled up our water bottles too.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Riding on the bridges was fabulous. Majority of the time there was a separate line from the cars – or underneath.

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

There was one stop in particular (halfway point) which has a lot of spaces for cyclists and sells the local produce along with sweats etc.  we enjoyed a fabulous ice cream which was orange flavoured.  Funnily enough Kym went off to buy it (had to use a vending machine to get a ticket).. and had some assistance from a Japanese person, and came back and said “I should of let you do that…” haha :)

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

The ride itself was perfect – we really enjoyed it.  Along the recommended route there are a few small challenges to get up hills to the bridge height, but nothing we couldn’t handle on the Brompton – yeah for low gears!
Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

We made it to the last train connection back to Kyoto… weph! Given the temperature was suppose to be 30 that day we were pretty tired… and pleased to see the train station (oh those last 4kms!), and buy ekiben! It was certainly great day on the bike!

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan

Inland sea bike ride - Japan